"Locavore" is a term that was coined in 2005 by a group of four women in San Francisco, who proposed that local residents should try to eat only food grown or produced within a 100-mile radius. "Locavore" has become such a buzz word, that the New Oxford American Dictionary (the trendy alternative to the traditional Oxford English Dictionary) recently jumped on the "loca"-motive, announcing that it would be the 2007 word of the year.
So what does being a locavore entail? The movement encourages consumers to buy from farmers' markets or even grow or pick their own food, and to avoid supermarkets, since shipping food over long distances often requires more fuel for transportation. Eating locally is not just about taste or nutritional content; it is ultimately about trying to make decisions that people believe may help the environment. Whatever the reason for going locavore, though, it is important to remember that there is no evidence that locally grown foods are by definition more nutritious.
Going local might well have an impact on fossil fuel usage. The average American meal travels 1,500 miles from the field to fork. Too, some people may feel an added sense of security of knowing who they buy from and getting to know the producers. Or some may just like the atmosphere of grocery shopping outdoors and not being run over by someone's shopping cart. Taste is another appeal for people buying locally-grown foods. For example, tomatoes destined for sale within a short distance can be picked when they're ripe whereas tomatoes bound for long-distance travel are picked before they're ripe, to ensure they're not damaged or bruised during the long transportation.
There are some disadvantages of limiting your food source to a 100-mile radius, however. For some of us, it would mean giving up beloved exotic fruits and vegetables we have come to take for granted, in favor of less exotic staples like potatoes, apples, and squash. The women who started the locavore movement had an advantage living in San Francisco, since it has a greater variety of produce within a 100-mile radius than, for instance, someone living in the Northern states. As a resident of New York, I would have to forgo mangoes, avocados, pineapples, oranges, bananas, and other foods that are a great source of vitamins, minerals, and fiber. And if you decide to devote yourself to shopping at farmers markets (if there is one in your area), you'll have to figure out what to do when you need something on short notice, since many are only open one day a week.
You could try reading the labels at the grocery store to determine where your food comes from, but the origin of half of your food or ingredients may remain mysterious. Under the Country of Origin Labeling Law (COOL) -- which has not yet been fully implemented -- only meat, seafood, fresh and frozen produce, and peanuts would be required to have labels [Editor's note: And as ACSH's Jeff Stier has argued, country of origin labeling is a poor and easily-demagogued filter mechanism for determining food quality]. The labeling leaves out a wide range of products from dairy to processed goods. And if you think that being an eco-consumer is too time consuming, you'd better forget about growing your own vegetables.
While eating locally may appeal to some palates -- mainly those who appreciate fresh produce -- going locavore could mean sacrificing favorite foods and important nutrients in the name of the environment. Some companies like the UK snack manufacturer Boots and Walkers are trying to get around this, by creating "food mile" conscience products. Boots has created a range of sandwiches made and sourced in one area of the UK, while Walkers Crisps claim its products are made of 100% British potatoes. Similar initiatives could easily take place in the U.S, which is rich in land and has a diverse climate.
Personally, I think it's a great idea to want to help the environment and local economy. However, I don't think I could ever be a full-fledged locavore. A healthy -- and happy -- eater consumes a variety of foods, and as much as I want to help conserve fuel, I can't fathom a winter of eating just squash.
Krystal Ford is a research intern at the American Council on Science and Health (ACSH.org, HealthFactsAndFears.com).
